GCDual Internal Installation for DOL-001 Gamecube
This Kit includes:
This is kit is for advanced installers only. I am not held responsible to damage to your console or damage to the kit. Each kit is personally tested by me and confirmed working before being shipped out.
This document assumes you know how to take apart the gamecube with a gamebit tool as these instructions will not be included.
- QSB PCB
- Main PCB
- HDMI PCB
- FFC cable
- #3-56 Nut
- M2 Screw
- M2 Nut
- 30 AWG Wire
5.2 and Earlier Revisions:
- Temperature Controlled Soldering Iron
- Extra Fine Soldering Tip
- Solder Wick
- 99% Isopropyl Alcohol
- Side Cutters
- Drill Bit
- Small Square File
- Small Flat File
- Metal Cutting Tool, ie dremal
For scart To hookup RGBS you will need a SNES mutlitout cable with a sync attenuation resistor inside the cable. Depending how you wire the QSB will depend on which cable you need. But most users should need a CSYNC cable like these:
5.3 and later Revisions:
Both types of scart cables are supported. If you cable has an attenuation resistor inside, then make sure JP2 is closed/shorted. If your cable does NOT have an attenuation resistor then make sure JP2 is open. These cables with attenuation resistors are still recommend on 5.3 and later.
To Hookup HDMI you will need an HDMI mini cable. I recommend this one on amazon: https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-High-Speed-Mini-HDMI-HDMI-Cable/dp/B014I8UEGY/
Decide how you want to wire the GCDual up the analog port. There are jumper pads on the QSB PCB that will allow you to route signals to different locations. Click here refer to this document to understand the jumper settings. This document also goes over required steps for PAL consoles and NTSC consoles wanting to use the CHROMA and LUMA pins.
Dissamble the gamecube, so the motherboard is free.
*Leave the heatsink in place, unless you plan to replace thermal pads.
- Desolder the highlighted areas with desoldering braid.
Install the original heatsink screw with the supplied #3-56 Nut into the hole closest to the digtal port.
Don't overtight or you will strip the screw.
- It should look like this when done.
- The QSB should lay perfectly flat. If it does not desolder some more.
- Solder in the QSB.
Make sure you get good penetration into the holes.
- I use a soldering tip like this. It works very well.
- Check to verify there is NO continuty between adjacent pins
- Check to verify there is continuty between QSB points and digital out
this is is a little difficult at first, but is eaiser than it looks.
- Line the pcb up so the screw is centered, and the pads are even, and tack into place.
- Solder the rest of the pads in. Go slow, don't bridge pins.
Check to verify there is NO continuty between adjacent pins
- Solder the support
- Solder the Pad wire in
- Attach the FFC Cable
FFC connectors are fragile, be careful
- Remove the metal material highlighted in yellow.
- It should look like this when done.
- Reinstall the bottom metal shield and motherboard into the case. and attach the other 5 screws into the heatsink
- Reinstall the DVD-ROM and route the FFC cable like so.
- Insert the HDMI PCB into the pocket and trace around the top of the HDMI connector. Drill 3-4 consecutive holes below the sharpie marking
- Use a small file (I use flat and sqaure tools); Slowly file away, checking the piece multiple times for fitment.
- Drill a small hole, and insert supplied M2 Screw, washer and nut
- It should look like this once done.
- Install the FFC connector into the HDMI PCB
This is harder than it looks, just be careful and take your time, also note the orientation.
- Attach the back piece and reinstall the top case.
Make sure not to pinch the FFC cable as you slide the top case on.
If you don't get video, try another tv. If still nothing then re-double check everything; especially the QSB board solder points.
For questions about GC-Video's functions refer to the github here
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